The Ghost Railway

A heap of broken images, where the sun beats,
And the dead tree gives no shelter

T.S. Eliot – ‘The Waste Land’

A spring morning with an eerie stillness in the air and a sense of foreboding within me. Keep moving; reluctant to stop and linger I walk along the line. Is this a place of ghosts, or perhaps it is a haunting I carry within me. I lose my grip on where the memory resides, unsure as to whether it is in here or out there.

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Ghost Railway 2Ghost Railway 3The Mold to Denbigh Junction Railway, opened in 1869 and closed in 1962. A branch line of a branch line; now a phantom limb of twisted metal, grasping roots and overhanging trees. A hot August Bank Holiday at Mold station in 1959. The engine reverses into place in a cloud of steam. It locks it grip on the waiting carriages and the expectant crowd, seaside-bound, jostle their way aboard. Rhydymwyn, Star Crossing, Nannerch, Caerwys, Bodfari. Defunct stations, long gone. Change at Denbigh Junction for the train to Rhyl.

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Ghost Railway 5Ghost Railway 6Then that summer, 1960-something, the only traffic goods trains twice a day carrying limestone from the quarry at Hendre to the cement works at Padeswood. The rails twitch and shimmer in the blazing heat. A youthful shoulder against the door and the lock on the trackside hut gives way. The stench of rotting sandwiches, someone’s forgotten lunch. A dusty overall hanging on a nail. They find a metal box and drag it outside into the sun and flick open the catch. Detonators, someone says, I’ve seen them before. The railmen put them on the track to warn trains to slow down, he says. The boys fill their pockets with handfuls of the wristwatch-shaped treasures, scale the fence and run towards the footbridge over the river.

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Ghost Railway 8Ghost Railway 9In Mold I find a railway bridge, still soot-blackened, and a cutting converted into a car park. But the station is long gone, where it stood is now home to a branch of Tesco. And just yesterday, or so it seems, a group of boys drop heavy stones, river-wet, onto the detonator capsules lined up on the concrete bridge. With each loud report they cheer and bite on air filled with acrid fumes.

Ghost Railway 10Ghost Railway 11 Ghost Railway 12

                                                         this frail
Travelling coincidence; and what it held
Stood ready to be loosed with all the power
That being changed can give.

Philip Larkin – ‘The Whitsun Weddings’

About Bobby Seal

Freelance writer, poet and psychogeographer
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2 Responses to The Ghost Railway

  1. Interesting and atmospheric, thank you, virtually no abandononed railways in England have the track left, so your photos very poignant…

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