The Two Moors Way: Part 4

All the beauty of the spring went for happy men to think of all the increase of the year was for other eyes to mark. Not a sign of any sunrise for me from my fount of life; not a breath to stir the dead leaves fallen on my heart’s Spring.”
R.D. BlackmoreLorna Doone

Today is the final day of our walk and takes us for nearly twenty miles over Exmoor and down to the coast at Lynmouth. From Hawkridge we cross the Tarr Steps, an ancient clapper bridge across the River Barle, and then follow the Barle valley northwards to Withypool.

From here we continue to follow the river and its pleasant wooded valley. The track then gradually climbs up onto the open moorland taking past the old mine workings at Wheal Eliza.

We dip down into the valley and through the village of Simonsbath, through a conifer forest and up onto the open moorland again.

At Exe Head we stop to look for the source of the River Exe. The best we can find is a patch of waterlogged turf; but even great rivers have to start somewhere. The sun is high in the sky by the time we climb up onto the Cheriton Ridge; our final major ascent before we gradually descend towards the coast.

We pass the National Trust property at Combe Park and then take a green lane which follows the valley down towards Lynmouth. At this point two of the riveted lacing eyelets on my right boot decide to part company with the rest of the upper. But no matter, I can see the sea and it’s all downhill now. Having travelled across two moors, from the English Channel to the Bristol Channel, we complete our 117-mile walk by dipping our toes into the sea at the end of the breakwater on Lynmouth beach, before going off in search of a celebratory pint.

 

All pictures ©Bobby Seal

 

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The Two Moors Way: Part 3

Continuing our 117-mile walk across Devon, coast to coast, in 2013. Part 1 can be found here and part 2 here.

In Medieval times Chagford was a Stannary town, one of four in Devon where locally mined tin could be brought to be weighed and assayed. Later it became a centre for the wool trade. With its narrow streets and buildings dating back to the 15th century it makes a pleasant place to rest for the night.

The next morning we cross the River Teign and head north towards Drewsteignton.

Along the way we pass Castle Drogo, a granite revivalist castle built in the early 20th century. It was designed by Edwin Lutyens and incorporated Medieval and Tudor styles. It was subject to extensive renovation when we were there.

We cross the busy A30 dual carriageway after Drewsteignton and leave the Dartmoor National Park. The route to Morchard Bishop and our next overnight stop takes us through rolling agricultural land and along lanes and footpaths.

We are up early the next morning as we have a 22-mile trudge up to Hawkridge and Exmoor. We walk through wooded valleys with streams that flow westward towards the catchment basin of the River Taw and so-called Tarka Country.

All day the wind shook the rusty reed-daggers at the sky, and the mace-heads were never still.

Henry Williamson – Tarka the Otter

Once out of the valleys and onto higher ground we catch glimpses of Exmoor on the horizon ahead and Dartmoor at our backs. As the afternoon begins to cool and rain clouds move in from the west we reach Hawkridge at last,

All pictures ©Bobby Seal

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The Two Moors Way: Part 2

Continuing the story of our 117-mile walk across Devon, coast to coast, in 2013. Part 1 can be found here.

From our stopping place just north of the River Dart we set out across the moor towards Grimspound and Chagford. Today’s route takes us over the hilly northern section of Dartmoor and is probably our toughest day’s walking. But before that we walk gradually uphill through the morning-fresh wooded valley of the Dart.

The moor is high and empty, but it hasn’t always been so. For our prehistoric ancestors these uplands were safer and more comfortable places to live than the densely forested valleys. Evidence of earlier occupation is all around, as Conan Doyle, author of The Hound of the Baskervilles, which he set on these moors, noted in the Victorian era:

The whole steep slope was covered with grey circular rings of stone, a score of them at least.
“What are they? Sheep-pens?”
“No, they are the homes of our worthy ancestors. Prehistoric man lived thickly on the moor, and as no one in particular has lived there since, we find all his little arrangements exactly as he left them…”

Arthur Conan Doyle – The Hound of the Baskervilles

At the highest point on Hamel Down (532m) is Broad Barrow, a huge prehistoric burial site, the largest on Dartmoor. The Two Moors path runs directly through it.

Nineteenth Century Marker Stone on the Barrow

Hamel Down

A mile further on is Grimspound. I have written about Grimspound on this blog before, so I have reused some of that material for this account.

We approach Grimspound from the south-east over Hameldown Tor and Broad Barrow. As we do so I have in mind Julian Cope’s description from his wondrous The Modern Antiquarian (1998):

Imagine ancient travellers arriving at Grimspound, but coming downhill from over the moor to the east, the great citadel on Hookney Tor high above to the north, dotted with look-outs and linked by the causeway. Imagine the women at the water – the fast-flowing stream at the northern edge of the huge circle. The water runs right through the settlement. And mighty it is too.

Approaching Grimspound from the South-East

 

Grimspound does not disappoint – it is only the weather that is grim this day, battering us with driving rain as we come down off the Tor to continue on towards Chagford. The four-acre site comprises a circular defensive enclosure containing the remains of twenty-four hut circles, all originating from the Late Bronze Age. The site is dominated by the heights of Hookney Tor to the north.

Hut Circle

Hut Circles Showing Entrance to the Enclosure

From Hookney Tor

The name Grimspound, of course, is a relatively modern invention, with ‘grim’ meaning deadly or savage and ‘pound’ an enclosure. But there is ample evidence that this was not such a grim place in Bronze Age times, with the climate of southern Britain being much more temperate and the four-foot walls of the enclosure being more suited to herding animals than necessary for defensive purposes. Nonetheless, on our visit nature succeeds in evoking a powerful sense of a landscape steeped in desolation and hardship.

We come down off the moor, cross the B3212 Exeter to Postbridge road and meander our way through the lanes for another four miles or so to the village of Chagford.

All pictures ©Bobby Seal

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The Two Moors Way: Part 1

In May 2013 I took a walk with three friends travelling from Wembury on Devon’s south coast to Lynmouth in the north. Our route took us across Dartmoor and Exmoor on a 117 mile long-distance path known as the Two Moors Way. Because of the restrictions caused by the current pandemic, a journey such as this is impossible at the moment. So, with my memory prompted by a set of old photographs, I’m making that journey again in my imagination and sharing our progress here.

Two Moors Way Map

 

Rich, Bruce, Clive and I stayed at Clive’s mother’s house in Exeter on the Friday evening and then drove down to Wembury, near Plymouth, to start our walk early on the Saturday morning. We walked down the beach and immersed our toes in the water before we set out: if you’re going to do this coast-to-coast thing, do it properly!

Wembury

 

The route to our first overnight stop, at Ivybridge, passed through rolling green Devon countryside and along lanes sweetly fragrant with wildflowers. We walked through villages still deep in weekend slumber and caught occasional glimpses of the dark smudge of Dartmoor along the skyline to the north.

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We crossed Cofflette Creek and then approached Ivybridge along the Erme Valley. In the evening we met Clive’s sister and her family for a pub meal. Although he left Devon more than thirty years ago, Clive still has family all over the county.

This first section of the walk is designated as the Erme-Plym Trail; the Two Moors Way proper starts at Ivybridge. We set off early on the Sunday morning heading north out of town. It’s an unrelenting climb out of the valley and up onto the moor, but very soon we picked up the Two Moors Way waymarkers and moved on to a recognisably moorland landscape. Although it is now deserted, with not even a hamlet or isolated farmhouse, this section of the moor is dotted with former china clay workings and at Redlake the route of a former tramway, used to transport the clay, is still discernible.

There is lots of evidence of earlier inhabitants of Dartmoor too, with Bronze Age cairns, enclosures and and the remains of burial kists dotted about the landscape.

Just beyond Scorriton we cross the still youthful River Dart and near here our resting place for the night. Alice Oswald’s 2002 poem Dart captures perfectly the otherwordly nature of this landscape:

What I love is one foot in front of another. South-south-west and down the contours. I go slipping between Black Ridge and White Horse Hill into a bowl of the moor where echoes can’t get out

listen

a

lark

spinning

around

one

note

splitting

and

mending

it

and I find you in the reeds, a trickle coming out of a bark, a foal of a river

Alice Oswald – Dart

 

Map of Two Moors Way courtesy of Cicerone Press
All other pictures ©Bobby Seal

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The Flow of Time: Lockdown, Day 52

Have you also learned that secret from the river; that there is no such thing as time? That the river is everywhere at the same time, at the source and at the mouth, at the waterfall, at the ferry, at the current, in the ocean and in the mountains, everywhere and that the present only exists for it, not the shadow of the past nor the shadow of the future.
Hermann Hesse – Siddhartha

Lockdown Day 52

This is the final post of this series. All things must come to an end. Followers of this blog may recall that, when I started my The Flow of Time project, the idea was to post a picture each week from exactly the same spot on a bend in the river near to the place where I do my voluntary work. I hoped to show the river’s cycle of changes through all the seasons of the year; a total of 52 linked posts. The onset of the lockdown put an end to that particular iteration  and the project became something else. I have enjoyed creating these daily posts, but I think they have now run their course. But I’m so grateful to the many people who have given me such kind and encouraging feedback over the last few weeks.

This blog will continue, but with other and more varied posts. We are still under lockdown in Wales so I plan to use my time at home to edit and complete my novel, Swimming Against the Stream, excerpts from which I have shared on this blog: Julie Baptiste is alive and well and about to move into her second draft!

So this final post is not just about endings, but also concerns new beginnings. On Tuesday my daughter gave birth to her own second daughter and mother and baby are now safely back at home. A new life: our beautiful lockdown child.

Picture of the River Dee near Overton ©Bobby Seal

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The Flow of Time: Lockdown, Day 51

I came from the sunny valleys
And sought for the open sea,
For I thought in its gray expanses
My peace would come to me.

Sara Teasdale – The River

Lockdown Day 51

 

Dee Estuary in Winter ©Bobby Seal

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The Flow of Time – Lockdown, Day 50

Of four infernal rivers that disgorge.
Into the burning Lake their baleful streams
Abhorred Styx the flood of deadly hate,
Sad Acheron of sorrow, black and deep;
Cocytus, nam’d of lamentation loud
Heard on the rueful stream; fierce Phlegethon
Whose waves of torrent fire inflame with rage.
Far off from these a slow and silent stream,
Lethe the River of Oblivion rolls
Her wat’ry Labyrinth whereof who drinks,
Forthwith his former state and being forgets,
Forgets both joy and grief, pleasure and pain.

John Milton – Paradise Lost

Lockdown Day 50

My post on Day 46, the one about my father’s time as a PoW, is still receiving comments, both on this blog and directly to my inbox. My point about the power of small kindnesses in a time of seemingly overwhelming adversity seems to have resonated with a lot of people. For anyone who enjoyed reading my VE Day blog post, I suggest you also take a look at Simon Lavery’s post on a similar subject HERE. In fact, Simon’s literary blog Tredynas Days is a good one to follow if you appreciate  sensitive, perceptive analysis.

Last week’s blog post was the first time I’d written publicly about my dad’s wartime experiences. It strikes me that, as my awareness of the nearness of my own mortality grows each day, I need to record these experiences in a more comprehensive way before they are lost forever. One of my three daughters has been encouraging me for years to do precisely this. Lisa Hill, commenting about the Day 46 post, suggested there is often someone in each family who is best suited to adopting the role of listener and recorder.

The only other time I shared any of my dad’s story in any kind of public forum was when I used it as the basis for a creative writing essay in my A Level class. In that essay, which I recall I rather pretentiously called Betweeen Time and Timelessness, I drifted back  through time to speak to my father in his PoW camp. I think I was reading a lot of Kurt Vonnegut in those teenage years! Mr Pryce, my rather wonderful English teacher, was full of praise for my essay, though I’m not sure it actually matched the brief we’d been set. He described it as my ‘ghost story in reverse’, an evocative phrase that has stayed with me for all these years, and he encouraged me to work at becoming a writer.

So when I do write that story, it will be for my father, my daughter and for Mr John Pryce.

Picture of River Dee near Aldford ©Bobby Seal

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The Flow of Time: Lockdown, Day 49

As for the river, it just kept moving, as river do–as rivers do. Under the logs, the body of the young Canadian moved with the river, which jostled him to and fro–to and fro. If, at this moment in time Twisted River also appeared restless, even impatient, maybe the river itself wanted the boy’s body to move on, too, move on, too.

John IrvingLast Night in Twisted River

Lockdown Day 49

 

 

 

Picture of Canyon Sainte-Anne, Québec ©Bobby Seal

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The Flow of Time: Lockdown, Day 48

Ema went to the river to wash her baby. She sat on a rock with her feet in the water, beyond the place where the children played. The tepid, roundabout flow wet her skin. She cupped a few drops in her hand and washed Francisco’s face. He wriggled. It was quiet and calm; she let a daydream carry her away.

César Aira – Ema the Captive

Lockdown Day 48

 

 

Confluence at Sunset ©Bobby Seal

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The Flow of Time: Lockdown, Day 47

Come on, people, come on, children
Come on down to the glory river.
Gonna wash you up, and wash you down,
Gonna lay the devil down, gonna lay that devil down.
I got fury in my soul, fury’s gonna take me to the glory goal
In my mind I can’t study war no more.
Save the people, save the children, save the country now

Laura Nyro  – Save the Country

Lockdown Day 47

Thank you to everyone who contacted me to say they liked yesterday’s VE Day post. I wrote it in one intense and very quick session with hardly any editing, but it turned out to be one of my most satisfying and authentic pieces of writing in a long time. So many people said they found it moving, and several said the story of the Polish girl moved them to tears.

I’m very grateful to my dad and his generation for the sacrifices they made to defeat Nazism. But I feel uncomfortable with all the flag-waving and jingoism that seems to creep into so many of our national commemorations. At this time of global pandemic and planet-wide climate crisis, co-operation and fellowship across national boundaries is more important than ever.

Picture of River Barle, Devon ©Bobby Seal

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